September
New larger photographs this month.........
At Lagny sur Marne we installed ourselves in our usual spot to meet Sue and Ian off the train from England. It was lovely to have them on board again. Sue wouldn’t have chosen a tunnel on the first day but she enjoyed crewing and Ian was great on the helm. They have a beautiful classic boat on the River Thames where they live.
Another tunnel
Sue knows the ropes
We cruised to Meaux and enjoyed exploring the old town. We met some fellow bargees there, Michelle and Kevin from Australia and Tina and Stuart from New Zealand. A brief encounter but we hope to meet again in the winter. We were issued with a brand new “zapper” gadget for automatic locks, very fancy with big carrying case, charger, etc. several language options all bells and whistles. Ours worked fine but we met others who were having teething troubles with theirs.
Sue and Ian in holiday mood
The new gadget
We said goodbye to Sue and Ian at La Ferté sous Jouarre and continued on towards a favourite village, Nanteuil sur Marne. We were now firmly in champagne country, vineyards clothe the hills along the river.
At Nanteuil
A favourite, Nanteuil sur Marne
Just look at that chimney!
Vineyards with irrigation system
We continued on to Chateau Thierry where we met Stan and Sharon, on their barge “Encore”. They are spending the summer in France and will go back home to California in the winter.
Approaching Chateau Thierry
The Theatre and Cinema
Squabbling swans
Chateau Thierry from the water
War memorial towers above the town
A bit of DIY on the bank
Moored near Dormans we soon realised we were in a trainspotter’s paradise! All day and night big noisy freight trains but no complaints as we had a wonderful view of the champagne vineyards.
Trainspotting
What a view!
At Damery we stopped overnight in our favourite spot, a pretty champagne village. We noticed an enormous amount of traffic and fields full of campervans. An army of workers had arrived and the grape harvest had commenced. We could feel the excitement. Incredibly the local boulangerie was closed for two weeks so a good thing there was some in our freezer. When the following morning we had roadbuilders rolling hardcore a couple of feet from our bedroom window it was time to move on - it makes you tired watching all these people work!
Army of pickers arrive
A bit too close!
Vendange in progress
Old grape press
Moored at Tours sur Marne
More vineyards
We turned into the Canal Aisne à la Marne and headed for Reims, but first another tunnel. We’ve done this one before, easy. It was great to find Sally and Mike on their barge "Ailsa"; we met them in Paris four years ago. We spent a couple of super evenings together and being like us, great foodies, that includes champagne!
At Reims with Ailsa
Sunday morning rowers
We parted from Reims and our friends as our paths would soon diverge. At Berry au Bac we spent a very peaceful night in the middle of nowhere, no light pollution and just the hooting of the owls. France seems so enormous. A bit of new territory now on the Canal de l’Oise à l’Aisne which is a real gem. Kingfishers were commonplace. It’s narrow in places and we've encountered the occasional isolated commercial barge. When we can see him on our instruments it’s customary to radio through and arrange to pass where there’s more space. It’s hilly here so more tunnels and easily accomplished. We stayed near a big reservoir which is a swimming lake, sailing centre and wildlife reserve. Settled into our idyllic spot we then noticed mountains of sheet piling with the plant machinery standing by. This will be used to maintain the canal banks. Sure enough the following morning the team turned up – time for a sharp exit!
Walking near Monampteuil reservoir
with abundant wildlife
The piledrivers arrive
Quite narrow in places
Another idyllic cottage
Nesting in at Guny
The mornings are becoming misty now, the leaves starting to fall but the full autumn colours are yet to come. However, it has still been warm enough to barbeque and eat outside in the evenings. It’s four years since we brought Esme across the English Channel, seems like yesterday. We feel very lucky to have this life and hope to continue for a few more years.
We spent a couple of days at St Quentin, an old favourite before tackling the Riqueval Tunnel but first enjoyed a tour round the Museé du Touage. This is the last towing tunnel in France and possibly the world - a very interesting interior of an old tug. Transiting the tunnel always requires some planning and concentration, judicious use of ropes and fenders. There are many horror stories of damage to ships. This time we managed to get it right, more by luck than judgement as some factors are out of your control, being dragged through for two hours behind a pair of massive loaded commercial ships, it’s possible to swing from side to side like a waterski-er. Anyway, we managed to avoid catching our roof on the curved tunnel walls and breathed a sigh of relief when we emerged into the daylight again.
Riqueval bridge
The tunnel chain tug
In the tug museum
Dragon boat, Cambrai
At Cambrai we had a rendezvous with Tam and Di Murrell for Chris could take an exam – the EGP or Extended Grande Plaisance. He is now licensed to drive larger ships and to cruise in Germany, to reside in France, none of which we plan to do but it is a feather in his cap, so to speak. Many thanks to Tam for making that possible. See their website www.bargehandling.com
Moored up with the big boys
Last sunset in France
Life on board isn’t all leisure and pleasure and the maintenance jobs don’t go away; many can be done on the move. This year we’ve renovated the aft cabin windows in between long days heading north. Each season we have to tackle some outside painting and so returned to our favourite spot in Belgium where we were joined by our chums Rocky and Carol on “La Tulipe” who had similar plans. A great week of fine weather meant the tough and dirty job of painting the hull could be accomplished before we all cruised together in the final week to our winter moorings in Brugge.
Esme’s new paintwork
La Tulipe looking smart too
More news in the New Year.